Monday, 17 June 2013

Warming Up Korea


As the weather has warmed up in Korea, I have found myself warming up to Korea.  For the past 3 months, I have been able to get out on my bicycle, with increasing frequency since May.  Blessing and I have also gotten out on more day excursions and have had more cultural experiences.  I’m also exploring the art of rooftop gardening!

Being out on my bicycle has allowed me to see a part of Korea that has been hidden since my arrival last August.  My rides take me through windy backcountry roads and along lush rice fields.  I pedal to the top of hills and enjoy long sloping rides down the other side.  I cannot express enough how much I enjoy my almost daily bicycle rides through the country.  There is one road that I particularly enjoy.  It lies in a mini valley, with rice paddies and green hills on either side.  I first have to climb a long gently sloping hill and as I approach the top, the early evening sun pokes up from behind the hill.  I fly down the backside enjoying the air whipping past my face, the glowing soon-to-set sun, and the winding road.  I love it!  About three weeks ago, we bought a bicycle for Blessing so now I can enjoy rides in the country with him!

June 6th was a public holiday and Blessing and I took the day to go traditional Korean river fishing.  Our two Korean friends from Seoul invited us; we met them while we were in Georgia when they stayed at our house on their cycling tour (they are some of my inspiration to go on my own cycling tour).  We met them at a train stop just 20 minutes from our city and headed to a very popular park that is (apparently) good for fishing.  The main difference between fishing as you know it and Korean fishing is the pole.  There is no reel, rather, there is a basket looking thing on the end of the pole around which you wind the fishing line.  To fish, you stand in the river, bait the hook and toss the line downstream.  You slowly swing your arm back and forth with the flow of the water and when you feel a bite, you wind the line until you get your catch.  I caught one fish after only fishing for 10 minutes.  Blessing spent many hours fishing and caught himself a few.  Apparently the fish we caught are not very delicious so we let them go at the end of the day.  It was refreshing to spend the day with Koreans.  Experiences where I get to be a part of Korean culture are few and far between (so far) and I really enjoy them when they come.

Fishing

View of the river

Blessing's first fish!  You can see what the pole looks like from this photo.

Me and my fish

Lunch time!

Our whole group
Blessing and I had another really great cultural experience when we returned to the same park to camp on the following Saturday night.  As I have expressed in pervious posts, camping in Korea is not like any camping I have done before.  It’s crowded and completely lacks wilderness…never have I ever camped someplace where I can hear freight and commuter trains running all day and night.  On this trip, however, I realized that this is the Korean experience: camping with 300 other people who pack up their entire kitchen for a weekend outdoors (rice cookers, people had rice cookers).  Despite the lack of true wilderness, it was nice to spend the night outdoors and swim in the river.  What we had for dinner, however, is what made the experience truly cultural.

Since coming to Korea, I have known that when the opportunity arose, I would eat dog; I was presented with the opportunity that night we were camping.  There was a group of men playing soccer and Blessing joined them, this led to the two of us being invited to join them for dinner.  Dog was on the menu.  It had been cooked in a stew but was served on its own.  We dipped it in a spicy sauce and had typical Korean side dishes alongside it.  To me, it tasted like goat.  While it wasn’t disgusting to me, it wasn’t delicious either, so I will not be seeking it out again; however, I am happy to have had the opportunity to broaden my food horizons.  Now I just have to find a situation that brings live octopus to my plate.
Yes, that is a dog's tail

The stew

The meal

I planted my first garden ever at the end of April.  Blessing and I bought large plastic tubs and asked the handy shop on our block to drill holes in the bottoms.  We found a shop that sold large quantities of dirt and seeds then started our garden.  The dirt we bought smelled funny, seemed to have a lot of wood chunks, and when I watered it, a strange residue came out.  I suspected we bought the wrong thing and asked a Korean-American friend to translate the label for me.  Manure.  Animal manure.  Our first garden attempt: fail.  We had to dispose of the manure on the street and then go back to the store and buy actual soil and replant.  Over the past month, the garden has grown tremendously.  It is overcrowded and I have learned that next year I will need more tubs.  No vegetables yet but I look forward to my first bite of my first home grown veggies!

Tomatos, cabbage, lettuce, herbs, broccoli, cucumber,  carrots

Squash and zucchini
All in all, it has been a pleasurable few months and I am looking forward to continuing my bike rides and traveling in this warm weather.  Life is good.  Life is happy.


Sunday, 19 May 2013

Korea, you're doing it right


One of the benefits of traveling is getting to see the ways different countries or communities have chosen to organize ­­­­­­­­various aspects of daily life.  In each country I have lived and traveled, I have learned new ways of doing all sorts of things.   In South Africa, I learned to air dry my clothes.  I never thought twice about every home owning and relying on a dryer for drying clothes (even in summer) until going to South Africa.  News Flash USA: the rest of the world doesn’t use driers; they use freely available and energy-efficient wind and sun.  In Cyprus, I learned of a better alternative to central air-conditioning, if you insist on using AC.  Equip rooms with individual air-conditioners mounted on the wall; when you are in that room, turn it on, when you leave, turn it off.  There’s no use in cooling an empty room (or house).   In Georgia, I learned that canning is a much simpler task than I once believed and is a great way to eat seasonally but still get summer vegetables in the winter.  What follows are some aspects of Korean culture that I think other communities could borrow.

When you check out at large supermarkets, you have two options for carrying your goods with you: garbage bags or cardboard boxes.  Korea uses a color-coded system for garbage, recycling and compost; each city or region designates a certain color plastic bag for each form of waste.  In Jecheon, pink bags serve as garbage bags (don’t imagine American black garbage bags, imagine oversized grocery store bags colored pink).  When you check out with the cashier, you can buy however many you want in order to carry your food.  Two birds, one stone.  The alternative is to head to the cardboard box counter located behind the tills.  Here, there is an assortment of flattened boxes that you reconstruct using the provided tape and scissors.  The boxes come from the packaging of food delivered to the store.  A final alternative is to bring your own reusable bags (while it is my favorite method, I have never seen a Korean do this).

Compost.  As described above, every city has a designated bag for compost.  These bags are filled with your food waste and placed outside on the curb.  Sooner or later, someone comes by and takes it for their garden or to feed animals.
These are not the colors Jecheon uses but the white is
probably for garbage and the green for compost

Everything is recycled here.  All paper, plastic, glass, metal.  Blessing and I hardly have any actual ‘garbage’ because almost everything goes into the compost or recycling.

Anyone who has ever been to the US knows (or should know) that traveling cross-country by anything other than plane or automobile isn’t very pleasurable or plausible.  Intercity buses, trains and their stations tend to be rundown, to say the least.  In Korea, whether traveling by bus or train, you are sure to have a clean, spacious, happy experience.  Furthermore, finding a bus or train to even the tiniest city is not too difficult.  Interconnected.

Squatter toilets.  I know there are many people who will disagree with this point but I stand by my love of squat toilets in public restrooms.  While I was first introduced to these in Georgia, I have furthered my appreciation of them here.  With a squat toilet, you don’t have to touch anything, ANYTHING!   You squat, do your business, flush with your foot and leave.  If you happen to have on a backpack, there is no need to take it off.  Of course, people make the argument that you can squat over a western toilet; however, that squat is more uncomfortable, you almost always splash on the seat leaving the next person in a pissy situation and you have to touch the handle to flush.  Squatter toilets 4eva.

You flush with your foot!
Ondol is the name for the heating system used by most of the country.  It is a floor heating system that works by sending hot water through pipes underneath the floor.  It’s awesome for two reasons: warm feet and I only turn it on when I need it.

Korea is incredibly efficient in its land use; empty lots are a rarity as every space of earth is used for agriculture.  That land next to the onramp for the freeway?  Planted.  That 5'x5' bit of ground next to your apartment building?  Planted. 


School lunches.  Even though I always brought my lunch to school while growing up, I think I have the authority to say that Korean school lunches are superior to what passes as a school lunch in much of the US.  While it may seem like a negative to some, I like that Korean schools offer one meal.  There is no choosing between pizza, cheese fries, a hamburger or a sandwich; in Korea, you get what’s being served and it’s generally healthy.  Lunch usually includes rice, kimchi, soup, vegetables and meat.  I often have dessert at my school, which is almost always a piece of fruit.  What’s even more enlightening is that there are no vending machines full of chips, candy and soda for students to pig out.


While this is just a goole search image, it looks just like something I might receive at lunch.  From the  upper left corner going clockwise: cucumber and apple salad, boiled pork rib with soy sauce, kimchi, rice, tofu soup.

Thanks for teaching me, Korea!

Friday, 29 March 2013

A Light at the End


April 10 will mark 8-months since my arrival in Korea.  As my previous posts have alluded to, Korea has not been the adventure I had hoped.  I am continuously looking towards the future, not my future in Korea but my future after Korea.  I know I should enjoy the time here and live in the “now” but I cannot help but yearn for my plans that will begin September 2014.

I don’t feel much fulfillment here.  I am at work 40 hours a week but I only teach 22 of those hours.  The rest of those “work” hours are spent sitting at a desk in front of a computer screen.  Of course there is some lesson planning but I only have to create one lesson a week.  I try to occupy my extra time by taking free online courses and reading but sometimes the internet connection sucks (thus, no online courses) and I cannot help feeling unfulfilled as I waste time looking through endless pages of pointless shit on the internet.  I don’t want to spend the majority of my daytime indoors, on a computer, checking my email or facebook for the umpteenth time.    I am 25 years old!  I want to be outside exploring the world!

The good news is that I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.  After another 17 months here in Korea, I will have plenty of money to last for years of cheap travel!  So patience, Elaine, have patience. 

So what will come next?

I spend lots of time running through all of the possibilities for travel when I am finished in Korea.  The most desired plan is cycling.  The very tentative plans (so tentative that I shouldn’t even write them here) for the coming years look like this:

September 2014-February 2015—Travel somewhere cheaply, like a dollar a day cheap.  Southeast Asia?  The stans (Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, etc)?  Road trip the USA with my little brother? 

March-May 2015—Spend quality time with family in South Africa.

June-August 2015—Spend quality time with family in the USA.

September-December 2015—Start cycling from Chicago towards Mexico and make it there before January.

January-December 2016—Take in the beauty that is Central and South America via bicycle.

January-December 2017—Take in the beauty that is Africa via bicycle.

All of this is so far in the future but I cannot help to think this far, it keeps me focused on completing these two years in Korea.  The light at the end of the tunnel.