Tuesday 13 November 2012

Missing Georgia


The Republic of Georgia was a tough place to live, especially in the winter months.  There was no central heating, which provided a myriad of lifestyle changes.  For example, I only washed myself about once a week to avoid having to take off all my layers of clothing; being naked in 32 degrees F with no place to warm-up (unless you sit on the wood burning stove) is not ideal.  I also washed dishes and rinsed my clothes in water that was just above freezing point while standing outside in freezing air; I thought my hands would fall off.  I saw my breath when I woke up, I saw my breath all day while teaching and I saw my breath when I went to sleep at night.  When I lived in a house with our friends Aly and Adam, all four of us lived in the kitchen with the wood-burning stove.  I think we all suffered bouts of cabin fever.  I ate the same foods day in and day out: oatmeal, bread, carrots, potatoes, cabbage and onion.  Winter was monotonous.  It was cold.  It was hard. 

Life was hard outside of winter too.  I struggled with having friends.  I was envious of Blessing as he made what felt like hundreds of Georgian friends while I only had my co-teacher.  In my opinion, it’s easier for foreign men to make Georgian friends than it is for women.   I also got really tired of being approached by men when all I wanted to do was sit and read in the park, keeping my face buried in the book didn’t stop anyone from pestering me.

In contrast to Georgia, I find living in Korea is not very tough.  I have plenty of money, heat and internet.  Who could ask for more?  In the first three months of coming here, I made more money than I made the whole time in Georgia.  I can afford whatever food or clothes I want.  I have a computer in school and paper and a Xerox machine!!  I have a heated apartment and school!!  I have a washing machine.  Life is good, life is easy.

So why am I missing Georgia despite all of its hardships?  I miss it because of those hardships.  Everyday was an adventure in Georgia and all of those adventures were a life lesson.  I learned that I could live life rustically, with no heat, washer or variety of food.  I learned to love not having internet.  I learned I love the simple life.  I love buying bread from the bakery on the corner of my street and yogurt from the granny in my neighborhood.   I also loved eating seasonally, it’s so much more in tune with the earth. 

Beyond all of the everyday adventurous hardships of Georgia, I simply loved the country.  It has the most stunning scenery I have ever seen.  I don’t imagine I will camp in many places that compare to the camping I did in Georgia.  That country is filled with untouched beauty!  Furthermore, Georgia has the most stunning hospitality I have ever come across.  I hitchhiked all the time in Georgia and I believe that is the best way to truly see Georgia because it’s the best way to see the hospitality.  I was invited into countless homes for meals and even a place to stay for the night.  I left almost every home with food to take with me.  I miss the people of Georgia.

Comparing the things I loved in Georgia to Korea is like a joke.  Korea’s outdoors are flooded with Koreans wearing neon hiking clothes.  The camping space I found had so much neon clad foot traffic, it was far from ideal (fires were forbidden!!).  There is not the same untouched beauty as in Georgia.  Then there are the people; the hospitality of Georgia goes unmatched.  I am not greeted with the friendliness I met in Georgia.  No one is interested in me.  Finally, there is the issue of materialism.  I can’t even find a thrift store in my city of 130,000 because Koreans only buy new things.  I like used things!  Moreover, everyone, foreigners and Koreans alike, are slaves to their hand-held computers (aka smartphones and tablets).  I don’t like being surrounded by the consumption of technology and material goods.

One day I will see you again, Georgia.

A Korean campsite

A Georgian campsite

2 comments:

  1. Mad E, I hear you, and as someone about to ditch Korea for the US for 2mo and then the great Georgian Beyond, I'm just itching for some 'naturopathy', occasional struggle, and the kind of freedom I found living in the California wilderness for 5months (not that I'll have nearly the same experience). My concerns here have evolved from day-to-day teaching dilemmas at the beginning of my contract, through the maintenance phase at month 6 and acquiring enough language to get by, and finally to post-Korea/US reacquaintance/parting with some great people I met here. Korea is best approached from a macro-perspective of the society and how it's developed in the last 50yrs: yes, individual parts can be irritating but I expected this coming in.
    Not that it matters now, but one of my deepest wishes was to be able to chat with some of the hunchbacked 80yr olds on these streets...or join the most genuine laughter with the older generations on Pidulgi back patio.
    In hindsight I'm glad I came here- we don't really understand places until we leave them and compare them with other places now, do we?
    Great post*. I may eventually start a blog.

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  2. Just wanted to let you know that I'm reading--I'm glad you've started a blog!
    --Kristin

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